In March it was closed due to rock fall, today we head back to the Verdon Gorge
But before that, surely we can fit in a via ferrate.
Last night, unusually for us, we stayed at an aire, on the outskirts of Digne Les Bains. The town seems to have thermals springs, and although tempted, we give them a miss. Even though we are at an aire our fellow motorhomers haven’t been exactly organised in their parking. We can squeeze in between, but then we are uncomfortably close. Perhaps this was their intention in the first place!
There is a second car park, inhabited by cars, surely nobody would mind if we located ourselves at the empty far end. Within an hour, three other motorhomes have joined us, all reluctant to shoe horn themselves into the ‘proper’ aire. It is a quiet night and we wake to a bright sunny morning.
So tomorrow we intend to trek up the Verdon gorge. Back in March, when we had to reluctantly give it a miss, we vowed to return. I don’t think either of us actually thought we would though.
However, we are both beginning to appreciate that the trip is coming to an end, and I think this would be one of the nice finales to the trip. As we passed through before, the landscape really impressed us.
Although it is Sunday we still find a large supermarket that is open, we like France. Adjacent to it is one of those markets, boot fairs in the UK, where you collect up all your crap from around the house and sell it. We occasionally peruse such spectacles, but never buy, does anyone or is it just voyeurism of other peoples trash?
Next stop, we head to the tourist information office. The trek is meant to be two days and we need to book the accommodation, a refuge half way down the route. We might also see whether there are any via ferrata at the gorge, an early bit of online research suggested there was one, but it was pretty vague.
It turns out that they do not think there is Ferrate down at the gorge, just climbing, but there is one here, right on the doorstep, in fact we can leave Dora in the town. We also pick up another leaflet for one further north which we could do after the gorge.
The news on the accommodation is more disappointing, not only is the accommodation full tonight, it is full for the next week!
We have to think fast, is there any other way to do this walk? Could we do it in a day. Our guide suggests that the main part of the walk for that day is seven hours, this takes us to the refuge. The village where we will leave Dora is a further eight kilometres away, probably two to two and a half hours, or we could get a taxi. It will be a long day, but it is doable, and we tend to walk quicker than our guide suggests.
There is also free Wi-Fi in the tourist information office, so we spend a few minutes checking up on email. While we are doing this, a young couple pop in to rent some via ferrata lanyards and helmets, maybe this is quite a popular route, but also one for the beginner!
All set then, time to do the via ferrata.
The title of the climb is Via Le Rocher de Neuf Heures
and it is located in Provence, just outside Digne les Bains
It is in two stages. Now as this is not in our guide we only have the French grading system to go by, this is AD+, but we have also given what we think it would be.
Stage A and B
| Length | 500m |
| Ascent | 110m |
| Descent | 110m |
| French grade | AD/ AD+ |
| Exposure | 3 |
| Seriousness | A |
| Time | 2:40 |
| Approach | 0:40 |
| Climb | 1:30 |
| Return | 0:30 |
| Notes | No escape points |
We park Dora close to the starting point. Small signs take us through the back streets of the town, which leads to a footpath which then starts to climb up through some small trees, which provide a modicum of shade, it is a hot and sunny day.
Eventually we break through the trees, been replaced by a shrubby landscape and the view start to open up. Above us stands a large buttress, somewhere up there sits a lot of stemples.
We hear voices up amongst the cliffs. It will be busy up there on the rock face. The young couple we saw at the tourist information office have just set off. It appears that this is the first time they have tackled a via ferrata and are moving quite slowly. We sit around at the base of the climb for a while so that they can get a good distance ahead. It is uncomfortable for both parties to be too close together.
The climb soon gets quite vertical and reasonably exposed, although the protection is plentiful and well placed and is presenting no difficulty.
It is such a warm day, looking back on the year, we have been so lucky with the weather. You could almost count the miserable days on our hands. That may be a bit of selective memory going on there, but it just goes to show what a good time we have had making the best of all conditions.
We are quickly approaching the couple in front of us so we slow down as much as possible. As we turn a corner, they are relaxing in a small shady cave, waiting for us to pass. Very polite, thanks very much.
It doesn’t make much difference however, there are still people directly in front of us. This time a family, a couple and their young son, maybe eight years old. He pretty much dances across the rock, no fear at all.
The route starts to climb again, then an awkward outward facing ladder, before a bridge.
We are really getting used to these bridges, but it is still amazing how much they vary. The loser the wires are the more difficult. Sometimes it is better to push the handrails away from you, widening your balance. If the wires are too lose you are compelled to bring them in. The safety wire, the upper wire on the left hand side, is the one you clip onto. This one is secured back to the bridge in several places which means you have to unclip and re-clip. This can be quite precarious.
Sometimes they set the wires too high, which it is okay when you are right in the centre of the bridge but when you are approaching to the end and the wires become tenser, as they are attached to the rock, it becomes more difficult to hold onto them. SM
You can really appreciate the slack in the wires, but we are both safely across and now a pretty vertical down climb. ‘Slowly does it’ on this section, it is all about careful foot placement.
At this point the young couple start there crossing of the bridge, now high above us.
Yeap, quite vertical. Looks like we are going down there. Quiet a strange via ferrata; vertical up, along vertical down, but is has a stage two, will this be any different.
We swap positions with me leading and Susana taking the photos. From the start it looks like it will be the same as before; vertical up.
The young family are still in front of us, so the pace is pretty slow.
This seems a pretty popular activity for a Sunday afternoon.
This is like a ‘domingueros’ via ferrata. ‘Domingueros’ was a popular caricature in the Spain the of the 1960’s. This head of the family used to go out to the countryside only on a Sunday and take everything with him including; tables, chairs the TV and radio Set and the mother in law. SM.
Just as before, once we have gained some height we start to traverse. It looks like this will be a mirror copy of stage 1. The grade looks pretty munch identical too.
No, a bit more height gain.
As we are lower down the landscape seems less barren. Here we are looking down into the valley where we slept last night, somewhere up there to the left.
And there is the town centre.
But before that drive we need to complete this climb; Susana contemplates the effects of vertigo!
That’s reassuring, here they have felt it necessary to tie in some of the rocks, preventing them from falling out!
We are making good progress. The young family have caught up with the party in front, three adults. These guys appear to be the log jam- Sunday drivers!
On the horizon, over to the left, our destination for tonight; the Verdon Gorge. Hopefully no more than a couple of hours away.
More height gain.
More traverse.
This seems to be long. I don’t think it is, it is just the speed we are having to move and the hot sun.
Under quieter circumstances we would have been out of here hours ago.
A bit of variety, a balance beam, and a little bit rocky to emphasis the exposure!
And eventually we get to the end of the climb, with the final adventure.
This appears to be the crux, the most difficult bit, a two wire bridge. Once again, the young boy dispatches this challenge with ease. His mother appears to be a bit more cautious.
We forgot to take photos of us attempting the bridge. Beyond it a funny pinnacle and then a short down climb to the end. A nice little climb, not too challenging but pleasant anyway.
From the end of the climb it is just a short walk to the summit a further beautiful views of the town.
Below, you can just appreciate the top of the pinnacle, and the beam. If you look really closely you can just about make out the wire bridge.
Susana reluctantly taking off her via ferrata gear.
I look so cool in it. SM.
One last look back,
before we head back down the hill towards Dora.
Again, you can just about see the pinnacle, the bridge, the beam and the end of the route. This time from below.
3.9 kms
2 hrs
We have chosen the same route back to Verdon, and although it is six months ago, and we have covered so much ground it still looks so familiar.
We cross a high plateau, with lavender plants as far as the eye can see.
A bit of a shame they are not flowering, the sight and scent must be intoxicating.
I remember this view of reservoir, different now, we a bright sun. There are many boats down below, playing in the water.
The deep turquois of the river, far below, which we will walk tomorrow.
And just as before, as a comparison we filled the drive. A bit busier on the road and a bit more sun I think, and pretty much five months apart.
Another amazing drive, which is just as good the second time.
I drove before, this time Susana did the honours, leaving me to enjoy the landscape.
And what a landscape!
We look forward to an amazing walk tomorrow.
Hoping the weather stays the same.
Eventually, right on time, just before six thirty, the time we try to stop driving every evening, we pull into La Palud sur Verdon.
The village is the same, this time though, it is packed. We park in the same place and take a walk around, first stop tourist information. It was closed before. He gives us a taxi telephone number.
We then head for the bar. The same surly bar tender reluctantly serves us our drinks, reluctantly tells us the Wi-fi is not working and then reluctantly rings us a taxi for tomorrow morning.
Everything is now set for tomorrow and a long walk. We wander back to Dora for dinner and an early night.
GDR
06/09/2015
