The highlight of Albania

It is strange what captures the imagination of travel guidebook writers, ours were transfixed by a ferry journey up a river, we didn’t quite know what to expect.

An early start. Just enough time for a coffee at the hostel before the driver arrives. It is one of those horrendous machines and takes ages to produce a tepid and insipid coffee, Susana is not gonna be happy. Not a good start to the day.

The driver arrives. We are in a car not a minibus. There are seven of us, so I end up squeezed across two seats. The driver stops in town, does anyone want a coffee. I am relieved, fearing the consequences if Susana had not had her early morning caffeine fix, but also this gives us the opportunity to bail out of this taxi. A furgon is also waiting next to the coffee shop and it is far from full. We tell the driver of our plans, he does not seem too unhappy.

Why stop at the coffee shop? Probably the driver gets a small commission. There is no need to leave this early, we could have had an extra half hour in bed. Probably the whole outfit works like this which is why our driver is not too upset, he will get his cut somehow and he is still carrying five tourists paying top whack.

The sun is now high in the sky and reflecting back upon the river, which we follow relentlessly up the valley. We prefer the bus, there are locals on board, and a little more room.

We stop in the middle of nowhere and someone gets out. Where is he going, there is nothing here, it makes no sense.

Sometimes a dam halts the river and it gets to a gargantuan scale. It is windy as the mountains create a funnel for the air, small waves appear on the surface of the reservoir.

At the next bend someone is waiting. They don’t get in, but a package is handed over; bus driver, courier, we have even seen and heard of money being passed on, to be handed to someone else further down the track, so also banker!

On the horizon, a massive plume of water jettisons out from a large wall of concrete.

A really impressive sight, the power of the water, the ingenuity of the human race.

We enter a long, steep tunnel and exit abruptly into a small car park at the top of the dam. It feels claustrophobic, cramped all these cars and vans dropping off people at the ferry.

Several strange boats are pulled up against the quay. One of these has to be ours

We would like to get back onto that dam, to get an aerial view of that water gushing out. It is not possible, we are hemmed in by rocky cliffs.

This is our vessel, where we will spend the next three hours sailing up river.

Very few seem to be getting on our boat, most have got on this small ferry. It is completely crammed, people wedged in the only bit of accessible deck at the back.

Shortly after, we follow them. On board; the Argentinians, four from Belgium, an American and another Spanish, us two and three crew. The Belgians are also bringing their rented car. It is not exactly packed, not like the passenger ferry. How do they make it pay?

There is a lounge area above with about 40 seats and a small bar at the back. I don’t think they are going to get much custom though.

The only person here is the Argentinian, he must be really tired from all that Skypeing, he is asleep laid out across three seats. Everyone else is outside admiring the amazing view.

The ferry travels slowly through the ever narrowing walls,

it gives you plenty of time for those wandering thoughts, or the opportunity to chat with fellow travellers, but no locals, this is not exactly a locals service!

The only continual disappointment, the litter, trapped in the eddies of the water.

Small hamlets dot the sides of the river. How do they make a living? Probably just crofting off of the land.

Occasionally the ferry in front drops people off, or picks someone up, which allows us to catch up a little. Not us, there is no need, we are the direct service.

The landscape changes from lush forest to craggy rocks as we enter a bit of canyon.

So dramatic.

The bridge has these amazing mirror glass windows that reflect the canyon walls and the water

The angel appears.

This angel gets everywhere.

One of the Belgians is particularly chatty and wants to know everyone’s life story.

This is useful, the Argentinian young lady is feeling a little lonely, her so called partner is still asleep, at least she has someone to talk to.

Everyone is heading for the same place, Valbona. The Argentinians will be volunteering for a couple of weeks to earn food and lodgings.

We gradually pull out of the gorge.

The landscape becomes less dramatic.

Eventually, the Argentinian guy wakes up and comes outside. He has missed the gorge. He looks around, climbs up on to the roof and probably falls asleep. He must be a great companion for her.

And before long we get to see our destination.

Larger car ferries are waiting for the summer peak season. I hope things pick up to make it worth while.

We still have a little over an hour travel to go, but first we need to find a means. A few men linger around the dock. The Belgians negotiate their vehicle, tentatively off the ferry and leave.

The Spanish and American also leave, on foot. They must be on a tight budget, they intend to hitchhike.

That leaves us and the Argentinians. Only four. The minibus driver pushes up the price, 2000 leke, still cheap but would have been nearly half that if the others had joined. Still a lot of locals come out of the woodwork and pile in, I think we are subsidising them somewhat!

The river gets more mountainous, more rocky, cleaner and steeper.

Before eventually we pull in at Valbona.

Now I thought I had sent an email, only later did we found out this was still in my outbox. Luckily they still had room available, but not at the guesthouse for €12 each, this had only just been fumigated! Catherine, the proprietor, gave us the room for €30 instead of €40, just don’t tell anyone. She seems to do a lot of this. I think the Belgium’s got two rooms for €40, but she didn’t like an American, he paid full whack!

Now we had intended staying one night, and then tomorrow walking across a pass to the next village, Thethi. This isn’t going to be possible, there is still too much snow on the pass, instead we decide to spend two nights in the valley. We can do a long walk tomorrow.

There is another slight issue, the accommodation is 1.2km up the road and the restaurant is down here.

This time with the luggage we get a lift.

The room is a delight, really luxurious for us, massive bed and fantastic shower.

They are working in the fields, everything is manual, horse and plough, no tractor. The children seem to do the heavy stuff, clever parents.

We head back down to the restaurant, a journey we would make many times over our one and a bit days. We stop by a small lake with crystal clear water, just a bit warmer and we would have gone for a swim.

We try to recreate our logo.

We continue down to the restaurant, we want to see if we can get in a small walk before dinner.

The walk is beautiful.

following another river down through the woods.

And before long we are back at the restaurant.

We don’t have a great deal of time, so Catherine suggests a short climb up to a large overhanging rock.

The views over the valley get better and better.

The buildings get smaller and smaller

Until eventually we reach the rock.

Time to really take in the view, the mountain air and watch.

As the sun disappears around the edge of the mountain.

That night we order from the local menu; Susana trout, which live in a series of pools outside the restaurant. I have the beef.

We order too much, too many accompaniments, we get stuffed, but luckily have the walk back to the room to aid digestion.

Has the day lived up to all the superlatives within the guidebook?

Well, yes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

GDR